Laissez les bon temps rouler

buffalo river 300x147 Laissez les bon temps roulerRites of passage are one of the most important occurrences in children’s lives.  Often the most meaningful rites are those that involve a deep connection with the natural world.  I had an arduous rite of passage one summer on the Buffalo River in northern Arkansas.

 

Silly plastic toys

I had just acquired my driver’s license a few months before and was eager to strike out into the wild.  My brother and I loaded up my GMC Jimmy with what I thought were adequate supplies and made our way to my friend Jeff’s house to pick him up for the journey. We stopped at a sports store and bought an inflatable kayak.  I had little experience with paddling and thus did not realize the uselessness of an inflatable kayak, but would soon find out the hard way.

Nutritious camp meals

We arrived at the Buffalo River campground late in the afternoon and made a fire for our hot dogs.  After a satisfying meal of hot dogs, marshmallows and Coca-Cola, we tried to set our sleeping quarters in the back of my SUV.  For some reason, I thought we could all fit comfortably in the back of it.  It never got below 85 degrees that night and we got very little sleep.

The next morning, we rented a funyak from a canoe rental shop and hopped in the car with an old Cajun man that shuttled us to the launch point up the river.  He told us dirty jokes that we mostly did not understand and when he left us at the boat launch the last thing he said was, “Laissez les bon temps rouler.”  I did not know what he meant, but no words could have been further from the reality of our river journey.

Delivered

We quickly realized that the inflatable kayak was not fit for the river.  You could not move it forward by paddling.  It had to just float with the current, which was non-existent at several places in the river.  After two or three arduous miles of dragging the kayak over rocks and unwrapping it from trees in the river, we stopped for lunch.  We had plenty of sandwiches and fruit bars until we flipped the kayak after lunch and the entire contents of our cooler went floating down the Buffalo River.  The sun was setting, we had ten more miles to go with a lot of still water and the only sustenance we had left was a single Nutrigrain bar between three people.

We tried to sleep on a sandbar in the river that night without any sleeping bags or tents.  I managed to curl up on the kayak while my brother and friend slept on a tarp spread out over the large rocks.  The one time I did manage to drift off a bit, I woke up to find a black widow spider on my leg.  Fortunately, it did not bite.  We were hours away from the nearest medical facility.

The home stretch

The next day was one of the most difficult of my life.  I had to drag the kayak with my large, lazy friend in it across ten miles of shallow rocky river on a completely empty stomach.  It took us all day and when we finally reached the launch point where my vehicle was parked, the only thing I could think about was FOOD!

As we made our way back south to my house, we heard on a local radio station that there was an escaped serial killer roaming the wilderness area very close to where we were camping.  Fortunately, we never saw him.  We had nothing to defend ourselves with on the river save the large rocks all around us.

Your call to action

This trip was rite of passage for us.  It taught us the value of preparation and knowing the river conditions that we would encounter.  I believe that every youth should have the opportunity for such experiences, but this is only possible if we preserve the places in nature like the Buffalo River.  In a time when state budgets are crunched and state parks are some of the first budget items cut, we need help preserving wild areas more than ever.  One of the greatest organizations I have ever worked with is the Nature Conservancy.  They preserve and manage wild areas all over the U.S. and many other countries.

The Buffalo River was the first national river in the United States and it is one of the few undammed rivers left in the lower 48.  It is a wonderful place to camp, hike, fish, swim and enjoy the beauty of the oldest mountains in the country.

 

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Habitat destruction and wild turkey 101

habitat destruction Habitat destruction and wild turkey 101Habitat destruction is one of the most pervasive environmental problems on planet Earth. It is the reason for much of the decline in biodiversity in recent decades and plays a role in climate change.  Natural forces like floods and tornadoes have always destroyed habitat, but humans are destroying habitat at a faster pace than ever recorded before. This destruction is possibly the greatest threat to wildlife and the biggest challenge for humanity.

 

A Silent Witness

As a child growing up in Arkansas, I witnessed much destruction of hardwood forests to make way for pine plantations for making paper.  I did not realize the scale of this destruction until I was an adult.  Habitat destruction effected me personally me because I spent so much time outdoors camping, fishing, hiking and mountain biking.  One particular weekend of camping comes to mind…

Camping with Crazies

I was a freshman at Hendrix College and eager to explore the many outdoor options of western Arkansas.  One Saturday morning in April, a friend and I packed up my truck and headed west for the Ouachita Mountains.  Our destination was Iron Springs campground, just north of Hot Springs, a famous resort town where Al Capone used to hang out long ago.

We arrived at the campground on Saturday evening with plenty of beer, music and meats for grilling.  There was only one other vehicle in the entire campsite, a large RV full of crystal seekers.  This part of Arkansas is known for its high-quality crystals and valuable stones.  It is only an hour away from North America’s only active diamond mine at Murfreesboro.

Along came Freddy

It was a relatively calm evening until an old Jeep truck wheeled its way into the parking spot next to our campsite.  When the door opened, a very thin, sun-dried character hopped out of the cab and made his way over to our site.  He seemed nice, but was missing several of his teeth and you could tell that he had a rough life.  He introduced himself as Fred and said that he lived just a few miles up the road in a mobile home with his mother.  He later told us that he occasionally had to live in his truck when his mother could not put up with him any longer.

We started a fire and enjoyed burgers, beer and some classic rock songs as we found out more about Fred and his dysfunctional existence.  Sometime around 10p.m. Fred opened the back of his Jeep and pulled out a half-gallon bottle of Wild Turkey 101 proof.  It didn’t take him long to get half  way through that bottle.  As he became intoxicated, the conservation turned towards how Fred felt about the widening of the road near the campground and the timber companies in that area.

Road Rage

He told us about how much the area had changed during his lifetime, although it still seemed pretty undeveloped to us.  We talked for a couple more hours and then decided that it was time to go to sleep.  I was just about to fall into dreamland when I heard Fred screaming something unintelligible.  I pulled the zipper of my tent slightly open and looked out to see what the commotion was all about.  Fred was trying to make his way up the steep bank of the campsite towards the road and was throwing sticks at cars passing by.  He was shouting things at the cars like, “Get out of my woods!” Due to his excessive drunkenness, he never made it all the way to the road but I am sure that all the motorists in the area got the message.  They were not welcome near Fred’s forest.

Misplaced Wisdom

Ironically, in Fred’s display of distaste for paved roads and traffic, he was the only one attempting an act of destruction that night, but his actions left a lasting impression on me.  Yes, he was quite drunk and uneducated, but I still agreed with his fundamental premise: we do not need more roads in national parks and natural areas.  We need more nature.  We need more wildlife.  Sometimes we find wisdom in strange places.

Your Call to Action

The experiences like these that I had as a child in the rivers, forest and parks of Arkansas have undefinable value in my life and it is our responsibility to ensure that future generations can have these same experiences.  One of the simplest ways that we can prevent habitat destruction is to buy recycled products and reuse items rather than buying new ones. On a larger scale, we can donate our time and/or money to organizations like the Nature Conservancy that buy and protect large amounts of land for wildlife and human use. Without your help, there is no guarantee that any of the natural places we cherish will exist far into the future.

 

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environmental conservation and shotgun blasts

Mallard Drake environmental conservation and shotgun blastsAs a child, I spent a lot of time in the woods.  I found magic in the forests and always enjoyed cutting trees to build forts and hunting birds without realizing the environmental impact that I was having on the forest. I knew nothing about conservation as a child, but I was developing a connection to the forest that would stay with me for the rest of my life.

 

 

Standing in freezing water

I also did a lot of duck hunting in the flooded timber lands of eastern Arkansas.  One of the greatest things about standing in ice-cold water in waders at four o’clock in the morning is realizing how much a part of nature I was. I usually went hunting with my dad and some other older men that knew the area well.  To me, the flooded forest was an unnavigable maze of sloughs and creeks that I would have surely been lost in forever had it not been for my dad’s skills in finding our way through the darkness.

One particular hunting trip comes to mind many years ago in Arkansas.  It was just about daybreak and there were hundreds of mallards circling above us.  I did my best to hide against the big oak trees so the ducks would not see me.  Ducks, unlike deer, are not colorblind and can detect movement very well.

The Firing Squad

After some hail calls and feed calls and several  rounds of circling above us, several ducks finally landed.  There was always an eerie silence after they landed and then some old man shouted, “Get ‘em boys!”  The next few moments were full of gunfire and probably the closest I have ever been or would want to be to war.  The thing that scared me the most was that the hunters were not always in a straight line.  Sometimes it was more of a semicircle, which meant that if a hunter on one end swung his gun barrel to far towards the semicircle he could graze a hunter on the other end with a few pellets.  Fortunately, this never happened when I was there.

Where does your food come from?

To some people who have never hunted before, this ritual may seem a bit barbaric.  Perhaps it is on some level it is, but the relationship that a hunter has to his/her prey is unmistakable.  When you shoot an animal you have to watch it die, (usually quickly if it is a clean shot) you have to clean and then cook it.  It is a whole process and has much more meaning to me than simply buying a piece of meat at the grocery that may have come from a farm thousands of miles away.

Your Call to Action

Hunters and conservation go together by necessity.  If there is no land to hunt on, then hunters are out of luck.  Ducks Unlimited has done a lot of good work to preserve land across the U.S. through partnerships with hunters and many other concerned parties, but there is much work to be done.  As physical beings, we humans must find a way to interact with land without paving it all over and destroying the habitat which supports us and all other species on the planet.  One of the most effective ways to help everyone realize our connection with the land is to be on it and observe the relationships that other plants and animals have with each other.  This is not anything new.  It has been done for thousands and thousands of years by some cultures, but it is becoming increasingly rare in the modern world.

If you are interested in helping people of other cultures preserve their land, Survival International does wonderful work with many indigenous groups around the world.  Conservation is not just a fad, it is a way of life.

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